The Emerald Mile
It begins with a crack in the surface of the Earth.
Thru which crisp, clean, fast-running waters carve an ancient path over 6 million years old.
The jumping off point to this adventure is a quiet flat wash at Lee’s Ferry that gradually gathers itself, deepens, increases its speed, creating switchbacks leading into serpentine bends that will ultimately emerge as the massive Grand Canyon
For the next 19 days and 227 miles, Adisa and I will ride a wet rollercoaster of rapids + riffles that begin inside the Rocky Mountain and run down to the Gulf of California. One of the world’s great river passages dating back to daring runs by William Powell in 1869.
Q: What does it feel like?
All our lives we walk on the flat surface of the Earth
So to be deeper inside the Earth with each passing aquatic mile is unforgettable.
Valiant people have run the river on substandard equipment to see it more clearly and to tempt their their fate. We heard of many historic fatalities.
Deprived of earth-top digital distraction, the only connection to the world is watching satellites scroll by in the deep of night from our open-air sleeping cots.
It is like counting sheep.
Tonight, our cots rests upon 1.7B year-old rocks, sand and trilobite fossil tracks.
Welcome to the primordial soup of Earth
And we are going deep into it
Here’s how it works:
Our seasoned, disheveled river guides are our life line
We place full trust in them as each day we collectively head into the unknown.
Some of the bigger rapids are heart stoppers: able to easily flip boats, twist metal frames and toss passengers into the frigid Colorado.
Our guides have deep Yoda-like water wisdom as they pick from multiple lines thru the rapids.
They are able to ‘read+run’ a rapid from memory.
This is a whitewater navigation technique where a paddler interprets the river's features from their boat and immediately maneuvers through the rapid without stopping to scout from shore. It involves identifying the "downstream V" (fast, deep water) to find the main tongue, navigating obstacles, and utilizing eddies.
It is an art-form
Anatomy of a rapid
Grab a raft pontoon and hold on, people
We will experience over 250 rapids during our 227 mile trip.
The ones you prepare for are white knuckles. Wearing neck tight splash gear, we are taught to crouch inside the boat and holding on tight with both hands
The ones you don’t expect are the most unsettling - throwing your around the boat and dousing you in copious amounts of 52 degree water
In nature’s cathedral to rock, sand and air, its all up for grabs
We do our best to hug the landscape as the waves seek to unhinge and buck us off.
What I learned:
The physical power of nature os staggering
To see recurring patterns in nature
Risking life and limb to see trilobite tracks in-situ
Looking up the rocks are watching, sometimes with haunted half grinning expressions.
To be outside for the full arc of the day is something I want forget - connecting the heavens + earth seamlessly
100% Exposure without a roof for 19 days is no joke - cut hands, ripped shorts, fertile hair, sand in every orifice, zero hot water - but lots of freezing cold!
Rattlesnakes really do crawl into empty sleeping bags - use caution
The rocks are watching - sometimes with ghoulish and haunting grins