The Silk Road
Ram Ram Ji (राम राम जी)
Travel has a unique ability to crack your senses wide open. To let you gaze thru the urban dust + dirt to find the light in peoples’ eyes. You are out there in the world, engaging, responding + learning about yourself as the field conditions change continually moment by moment.
It's also a fresh perspective on self. The locale teaching you to navigate and find your flow.
And a powerful reminder that life is fragile and we are all living it both vibrantly and on a thread.
In that regard, India is one big beautiful sensory overload of amazing humanity where a staggering 1.46 billion people co-exist with one another. For American vacationers, there are often two distinct visceral responses to India: this is an incredible journey of kind souls -or- get me the effe out of here, now. Often, it is the swing of a pendulum between the two.
The Silk Road is an ancient network of thru-ways connecting Asia, the Middle East + Europe heading right thru the heart of India. For 1500 years, this well-worn trade route was an artery of new ideas, culturual exchange and beautiful textiles. It passed right thru the town of Mandawa where camel caravans carried silk and spices, leading to the town's prosperity and the building of elaborate mansions known as havelis.
Ten years ago, we were introduced to friends Raju and Devender as they embarked on restoring a historic haveli. This year we traveled back to see it finished and the transformation is nothing short of incredible. A sensory feast of color, flora and delicious meals that also includes Banwar an eccentric handlebar mustached gardener who meticulously attends to the marigolds, spreading incense, before riding the neighborhood on his boombox color-lit bicycle at the end of each day.
Mandawa is real India: without lines of tourist buses, brimming with gorgeous still to be rescued havelis. Set near an agrarian landscape, it is a gem along the fabled Silk Road.
Thru Raju and Devender, we enjoyed dinner at Fort Mahansar where an 8th generation maharajah, queen and young daughter invited us to a private tasting of homemade saffron liqueur and then a view from the top of their immense fort. A great combination!
For Thanksgiving, we enjoyed a homemade lamb stew meal by Raju. Delicious and full of coriander, cumin, ginger, local spices and flavors.
Note: There are two sets of photos below. Click on any photo to enlarge it as you go. Enjoy.
From Mandawa, we head south to the Pink City of Rajasthan, Jaipur. An unforgettable journey where vehicles move independent of one another pointing in different directions along the horn-filled interstate. From huge tankers to 5 people on a scooter. Truck drivers resemble something out of Bladerunner. It’s magnificent!
Our highlight in Jaipur was a 6:15am tuk-tuk ride with CumCum who took us down back alleys, up on to roofs, into temples and on to a huge lawn for laughing yoga. Along the way, chai and lassi sampling kept us nourished. Unforgettable.
Deep thanks to Raju and Devender who opened their personal homes, hotels and hearts to us. We highly recommend their two locations, Mandawa Kothi and the brand new First Courtyard directly adjacent to the very best chaiwalla stand in town. Smart decision!
Thank you to Sandy who guided us towards the right spots - she is a 30x visitor to India. She generously shared and nudged towards new experiences.
(Click on the first photo below.)
