Welcome to the birthplace of mole.

From opaque blanco to a shimmering deep negro you can almost chew, Oaxacan’s are constantly tinkering and innovating with sauces. This place is both an UNESCO heritage city + food lovers paradise. Usually one finds a city which is one or the other - but rarely both. And even though I am less of a devout foodie, I thoroughly enjoyed every bite, sip and beso.

From Carmen’s street food cart to the numerous Michelin rated red stars, we ate amazingly well from dawn until dusk.

Yes, I know. Everyone consistently raves about Oaxaca.

As a first time visitor I am now on the same page; the ancestral foods, neighborhood political art murals, open rooftop restaurants, nearby archeological sites, clean streets and warm, welcoming locals.

Grateful to our longtime travel buddy Joan Gaunt whom invited, organized and nudged us to experience Oaxaca during Feliz Navidad.

As always, this trip began with insanely early plane flights. But venturing into the slipstream always feels wonderful regardless of time of day and watching sunrise from the plane window is life affirming.

I love adventuring in/around new cities, making sense of the unknown, connecting the dots, strolling and delighting in all the unfolding conversations, tastes and textures. To test my skills, my phone broke early on and I had to feel my way through the streets without a Google maps lifeline. Analog in Oaxaca works.

So why the UNESCO designation? Oaxacans are masterful weavers of deep heritage and new interpretations of their indigenous roots via a consistent thru-line of cuisine, architecture, and kind locals.

My favorite moment was being directed by a thoughtful local to follow a brick aqueduct from 1727 into the quiet Xochimilco neighborhood filled with beautiful street murals.

Please Note: The images are better synchronized when viewed on something other than a phone. Also, click on any photo below to enlarge it for greater detail.